Dysfunctional Mall? You’re saying to yourself “What the hell kind of name is that for a beer, or anything for that matter”. Well let me clear that up for you. If you had ever driven through North Bay (home of Gateway) on the Trans-Canada highway back in the day it was hard not to notice the first business establishments as you came up from more Southern climes. That would be the local Strip Club ** right next door to the Bible Store. Canadian comic (Pembroke born) Tom Green* noticed and he did a comedy bit called the “dysfunctional mall” on his TV show.
The artwork on the can has the tree of knowledge of good and evil from Genesis and the snake offering not an apple but a hop, to a leaf cloaked male individual reading a book with wings on it. Meanwhile a coy female individual in leafy garb is holding a sheaf of rye grain and has her back turned to the book with wings and is reading a book with no wings on it! The snakes tail becomes the highway leading to… you guessed it, a strip mall. I think this beer art should win an award for the most religious symbolism on one can. Perhaps a mall that our Sinister Minister would shop at?
So Gateway has honored the dysfunctional mall with a rye pilsner. This brew pours a nice bright golden with a white halo head. Some bubbles in the brew. An aroma of mild malt and grain which was masked a bit by the foam. The first swig was not a typical pilsner, rye grainy with a crisp bitter finish and a bit of a tinny aftertaste. They didn’t skimp on the rye, that’s for sure. Its not a high ABV brew but it sure comes on strong. The rye pil combo seems a bit dysfunctional at the moment but I am hoping for an evolution. Maybe my salty snack will come to the rescue. Eventually everything settles down but a bit harshness from the rye grains stays. Remains of the grains.
Not a smooth refreshing or easy drinking pil, a substantial rye grain presence made for a very flavourable brew. It was a bit overwhelming at times but still an enjoyable quaff.


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